Friday 26 October 2012

A bit of Salad

Hello there, and welcome back to the kitchen. I had a tough time figuring out what to write this month, but I thought it might be time for another couple recipe. With the warm weather we’ve been having, I decided that I would talk a bit about one of the most ignored, forgotten, or understated foods at a feast...salad.


Even in modern cooking, a salad is often an afterthought; some lettuce tossed in a bowl with some tomatoes, covered in dressing that masks the flavor, or lack thereof, of the greens. A well made salad, however, can be a wonderful introduction to a flavorful meal.


As with other vegetables, salads can be incredibly seasonal. The greens available in spring are a different flavor and texture than those found in summer. Cabbages are more available in winter than most other greens, at least for the UK. Different regions, too, may provide different types of greens based on different growing seasons and climates.

Lettuce served with a basic vinegar and oil dressing is a perfectly period dish to serve. This basic salad is talked about in writings from as far back as the Romans all the way up until Elizabethan times, though more elaborate salads were also served by the Elizabethans. It is easy to dress this up a bit with some fresh herbs for more flavor.


There are several types of lettuce available on the market, so which should you buy for your salad? Well, a bit of research can tell that some varieties are definitely modern, such as iceberg (developed in the U.S. in the early 1900’s) and Bibb (Boston Butter) lettuce, which was also cultivated fairly recently. Romaine lettuce, however, seems to date back around 5000 years. Rocket, also known as Arugula, seems to have been eaten by the ancient Romans for luck. Lamb’s Lettuce (also known as Mache or “Rapunzel”) was mentioned in John Gerard’s Herbal of 1597. Other greens, such as baby spinach or dandelion leaves, can also add flavor and character to a salad.

While simple greens with oil and vinegar are perfectly period, it is possible to dress them up as well to something that is, if not spectacular, at least a welcome addition or introduction to a meal. Here are recipes for two vastly different salads I have served at events with wonderful results. The first is a spring salad, the second is good for winter, when cabbage is more readily available than greens.

Lettuce with Boiled Egg and Spring Onion

Take 2-4 loose-leaf lettuces (I used lamb’s lettuce for about half the greens), wash them, pat or spin them dry, and put them in a large bowl. Finely chop 4-5 spring (green) onions and coarsely chop 4-5 boiled eggs. (I used Duck Eggs, which are slightly bigger but give a more full flavor.) Put the onions and boiled eggs in a small bowl. Whisk together some cider vinegar and olive oil to form a vinaigrette. Add a small amount of stone-ground mustard to your dressing, and add the dressing to the eggs and onions. Just before serving, toss the egg/onion/dressing mixture with the lettuce, adding some salt and pepper to taste.

When I made this salad at Coronet, it was delicious. When I later scaled it down at home, I had too much dressing and it didn’t work as well. What I learned was that it may be best to add only a little of the oil and vinegar mix to the egg/onion mix initially. After mixing that with the greens, more oil and vinegar can be added to the salad as a whole until the balance is right.

Cabbage Salad

Take ½ head of cabbage, shredded and rinsed, and toss it with 2-4 spinach leaves, ¼ cup of finely chopped leek, and ½ cup of peas that have been chopped and cooled, and put them in a large bowl. In a small bowl, mix ¼ cup cider vinegar, ½ cup olive oil and some salt and pepper. Add the dressing to the salad and toss gently to coat. Crumble about 2 oz of feta cheese into the salad and toss gently..

This recipe comes from the “Tastes of Anglo Saxon England” by Mary Savelli. The book itself is questionable as to its historical accuracy, but the recipe is simple and tastes good. The ingredients are period, so I generally think it’s reasonable to think a salad like this could have been served. I served it at Flintheath’s Yule Ball a few years ago, and it was well received.

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